This article describes the subculture associated with mental illness that encompasses multiple fashion styles. For the fashion style most associated with "Jirai Kei," see Dark Girly & Sweet Girly.
Jirai Kei (地雷系), which translates to "landmine type," is a subculture from Japan. It is primarily associated with young people frequenting the nightlife of Kabukichō. Initially, the style closely resembled the darker variant of Japanese Girly fashion during its peak popularity, but it has since evolved to incorporate a wider range of styles.
The subculture carries a stereotype: young women who adopt this cute, hyperfeminine yet dark fashion are perceived to have personalities that contradict their appearance. Instead of being sweet and demure, they are often stereotyped as violent and obsessive (akin to a Yandere), engaging in self-harm, and having habits of heavy drinking or smoking.
Japanese brands have rapidly adapted to this trend, with Western brands influenced by Kawaii culture also following suit.
History[]
The term "Jirai Kei" is derived from "Jirai Onna" (地雷女), literally "landmine woman," a derogatory term used to stereotype women, particularly those with mental illnesses such as Borderline Personality Disorder (BPD), bipolar disorder, and other mood swing-inducing conditions, as a "ticking time bomb." This term is often employed to dismiss women, frequently ex-girlfriends, as "crazy" or "dangerous" based on arbitrary traits, such as an affinity for kawaii aesthetics. Within the subculture, women are referred to as "Jirai Joshi" (地雷女子), or "landmine girls," while men are called "Jirai Danshi" (地雷男子), or "landmine boys."
The subculture became associated with various darker fashion styles following a "psycho girlfriend" dress-up challenge that gained viral traction during the March 2020 COVID-19 restrictions in Japan.[1] This challenge frequently referenced traits commonly associated with the Toyoko Kids, a group primarily composed of young runaway teenagers, some of whom were groomed online by older men with promises of a better life in the Kabukicho red-light district. These individuals are often exploited for sex work, drug trafficking, and other criminal activities.[2][3]
Philosophy and Culture[]
As discussed in the History section, the culture of Jirai Kei is dark, with mental illness, partying as escapism, and addiction being common motifs within the subculture. However, the wearers of the fashion do not have to participate in the negative aspects of the culture, and this subculture allows those with mental illness to have a community and a hobby to find solace in.
The personality disorder BPD, poor attachment styles, lack of self-esteem, and various mood disorders are the cause of these "Jirai Onna" to act like "landmines" towards their romantic partners or participate parasocial relationships. In Japan (as well as globally), the various social issues surrounding loneliness also lead to this sort of thinking.
To cope with this mental illness, the stereotype of Jirai is that they binge Monster Energy drinks and Strong Zero (which is alcoholic) in long bender parties and clubbing nights out. Shopping as escapism/addiction is also common, and a part of memes in the fashion.
Some Jirai also cope with their loneliness and mental illness through being clients of host clubs. As people of any age can enter those establishments as long as no alcohol is served, male hosts have been actively going for young girls to spend large amounts of money on them in exchange for affection, often resulting in the girls resorting to "papa katsu" (sugar-daddying) in order to afford their host club addiction.[4] Alternatively, some girls start off as hostesses and then later go to hosts because of the lack of romantic connection they find in their lives. The use of luxury bags signal to the host that the client has money (so they would be more attentive), and the kawaii and sexy fashion would make the Jirai girl look more appealing.
A more benign aspect of Jirai culture is Wota culture. Like host clubs, there is a danger is developing parasocial relationships, but it can also be neutral, with the activities being attending concerts and buying merch. This aspect of the culture is directly related to the fashion, as these clothes are cute enough for a special event, but practical enough to be able to dance and cheer in. In fact, Japanese brands label their clothes as "concert-wearing clothes[5]" in search terms. Fandom culture in general is also a large part of Jirai, with Jirai participating in Otaku activities such as developing strong attachments to their favorite characters and buying merch for that.
While some Western followers of Jirai Kei often attempt to separate it from its darker origins by viewing it solely as a fashion trend, the subculture largely retains a negative public image within Japan. Its associations with the "psycho girlfriend" trope are interpreted as a misogynistic stereotype, yet Japanese girls who identify as "landmine" fully embrace it.[6] It is also distinct from "reclaiming," where people continue doing something in spite of the stereotype. Rather, these Jirai acknowledge that they are mentally ill. This misunderstanding stems from several factors: the language barrier hindering accurate interpretation of Japanese articles and social media posts, cultural differences surrounding feminism and mental illness in the West and Japan, a lack of awareness regarding the perception of mental health issues in Japan, and brands capitalizing on the subculture's popularity by using "Jirai Kei" as a marketing term, regardless of whether their products are genuinely associated with it.
Outside of Japan, people are not aware of Toyoko Kids or Kabuchiko, so wearing the fashion out does not have that connotation in public. Some people wear the style because they find it cute, much like other Japanese alternative fashions. Some choose to only label their style Dark Girly to distance themselves from the negative connotation, while others do describe themselves as "wearing" Jirai Kei because it follows the history and/or for specificity reasons. Some may use the phrase "Fashion Jirai" to specify that they are Jirai only in a fashion context.
As discussed above, some Jirai in the West opt to reclaim the label and use it in a feminist context. The interpretation here is that the "crazy" girlfriend stereotype is sexist and an interpretation applied to women either with understandable reactions to poor behavior on part of the boyfriend or mental illness that does not harm people. However, in Japan, the behaviors of a landmine are actually fully abusive.
However, many non-Japanese Jirai also do have mental health as an aspect of the subculture and struggle with the same issues.
In English-speaking Jirai communities, there is separation and debate on being pro-recovery or neutral. Pro-recovery spaces encourage users to stop self-harming and seek medical treatment, while neutral spaces do not make judgments on these behaviors and do not encourage treatment nor endorse unhealthy behavior. Some Western Jirai enthusiasts also claim that one must be mentally ill to participate in Jirai, further leading to the use of the term "Fashion Jirai."
Visuals[]
Example of a heavily edited selfie by @hiudayonn.
Girls in this subculture add heavy filters and edits to their photos. Pale pink and white filters can add a slight haze to all of their images, and they are often decorated in virtual stickers with Jirai Kei motifs. They also use face and body editing to the point of an unnatural appearance. Impossibly large eyes with anime proportions, making skin more pale, and making their bodies thinner and longer are extremely common in photos. This is with the goal of appearing eerie and puppy-eyed, diverging from the trend of "pien" makeup on Japanese tiktok. The color palettes of Jirai Kei is mainly white, black and pastel pink, though on occasion red, blue and grey is also used.
To contrast all of the sweet and girly visuals, violent imagery is often shown. Box-cutters, razors, and pockets knives are commonly featured in outfit posts. The stereotype is that a landmine girl would use it to threaten her boyfriend if he upsets her, or that she engages in self-harm. Additionally, these cute girls often pose with fake guns (firearms are illegal in Japan), cigarettes, or alcohol and energy drinks (from Strong Zero and Monster Energy) with straws, presumably to protect their lipstick while drinking. Many photos have color-scheme matching energy drink cans, and it is even popular to stack and glue the cans in the shape of machine guns. Similar to Yami Kawaii, there is often medical imagery of pills and syringes, usually paired with narcotics and synthetic drugs.
Sanrio is strongly associated with the Kawaii, girly, and consumer culture in Japan. As a result, girls into Jirai Kei are also associated with these characters, specifically Kuromi and My Melody. People in this subculture own and take photos of plushies of these characters and own an assortment of merchandise, such as backpacks, pencil pouches, etc. themed around these characters. Sanrio has taken notice and even released Jirai Kei-inspired plushies of Kuromi and My Melody. Another character that can be associated is Menhera-chan, the suicidal magical girl that popularized Yami Kawaii. Her artist has drawn her in stereotypical outfits, and her self-destructive habits could be relatable for those in the subculture.
There's also many artists engaging with the subculture who draw anime-style illustrations of landmine girls wearing the typical outfits while in stereotypical situations, such as taking selfies, holding a can while squatting on the streets, or having a mental breakdown. Jirai Kei followers often repost these drawings on social media.
Fashion[]
The various styles worn by jirai girls illustrated featuring Blue Archive characters.
There are multiple styles associated with Jirai Kei, and these substyles have their own yearly trends. As the trends within Jirai Kei keep on changing, many brands mimic one another and release mix-and-match variations for the various styles worn. The ultra-feminine Jirai style has also evolved since its inception.
The core defining trait being that the fashion is worn by landmine girls. Comparable to E-Girl’s style, while landmine girls may wear many different fashion styles, there is a main look typically associated with the aesthetic that evolved out of a mix of several different alternative genres.
The initial look associated with the Jirai Kei subculture derived from Japanese Girly fashion, which people who are not from Japan use "Jirai Kei" as the default search term for this substyle. As discussed, some people who want to distance themselves from the mental illness connotation use the term "Dark Girly" or "Fashion Jirai" instead.
However, outfits consisting out of Goth Punk, Jersey Maid, and darker general alternative fashion are also worn by Jirai women, and these styles which do not resemble Dark Girly are also dubbed Jirai. People who wear these styles can either specialize in one substyle, or keep multiple outfits to suit their mood/activity and mix and match.
There are similarities between all fashions. Color-wise, the outfits have a more limited color palette in comparison to other fashions. Typically, these outfits only contain two colors. The neutral colors in this aesthetic are black and white, with the supporting colors being pastel pinks for the girlier styles and more strong colors for edgier ones. The fabric of the clothes tends to be on the more synthetic side and with looser construction, with the quality not being that high, on account of them often being made by fast fashion companies who constantly adopt to the latest trends.
Regardless of the style worn, the idea is to appear cute yet mature, but with an dark aura.
Dark and Sweet Girly Kei (2019-present)[]
This style is defined by an ultra-feminine, girly style that utilizes intricate trims, somewhat resembling Lolita fashion, but lacking in its antique and modest styling. This girliness is contrasted by mini skirt, sad and sometimes eerie makeup, and details originating from edgier subcultures. As discussed, this is what non-Japanese people, or people not familiar with Jirai subculture, imagine when hearing "Jirai," as it is one of the most common styles.
Subcul Kei[]
This page is under construction
Jersey Maid (2023-present)[]
Jersey Maid (ジャージメイド) is a Japanese fashion style that combines tracksuits (commonly called "jerseys" in Japan) with maid-like details, such as ruffles and lace. Outfits consisting of an oversized tracksuit worn in combination with a maid headdress and apron are the most common, but there's also many clothes specifically made with the style in mind that can often resemble Girly and Lolita fashion.
Suna Kei (2023-present)[]
Credit: @ribbondetective, @usuzuna, and @sleepy_stitches on Twitter X
Because the subculture began in 2019 and continues to the present, many women who started out in the fashion in its early years seek a more mature fashion to match their lifestyle. It is suited for the office and date nights, contrasting the more substyles above more suited for clubbing or concerts. This fashion is especially popular with women who go to host clubs, as this style conveys maturity and luxury, which would attract their chosen host to pay more attention.
It can be almost indistinguishable from non-alternative fashion, and the reason why it is deemed Jirai is that the subculture wears this type of outfit. However, traces of Dark Girly still remain, but now with less detail and in subtler styling. Keeping the same purse, shoes, keychains, and the simpler/elegant tops from the Dark Girly style subtly signals the continuation of Jirai fashion. For example, the left and center outfits use a Chiikawa keychain and Bubbles platform loafers, which are meme pieces in Dark Girly.
This style is called "Suna Kei," which is the first two kanji of the Japanese brand Snidl, which popularized this look. However, multiple brands produce this style and have had their items go viral. It shares an incredible amount of crossover with French Girly, but French Girly distinguishes itself from this style by not having the Jirai association and having certain stereotypically French pieces such as boucle tweed and Breton stripes; it also came into being before Jirai created this mature style. In fact, whether Suna Kei "exists" is a matter of debate since it relies on a single brand, but this is a common hashtag paired with the Jirai Onna hashtag.
The defining garment in this fashion is the mermaid skirt, also called a trumpet skirt. This style hugs the hips and flares out, creating a sensual and feminine silhouette. However, this style also features mini-length flared skirts which feature more minimal detailing. The Michell Macaron skirt, worn in the center image above, is especially viral and a "necessity" in this style.
Fur trim, faux pearls and jewels, and chantilly lace are the trims associated with this fashion. As discussed, the goal of the look is to be subtly girly, so only one trim is involved in a relatively "basic" piece, in contrast to the layered use of trims in 2023-onward Dark Girly.
The shoes in this style are platform, adding onto the continuation of Dark Girly. The subtler bejeweled Bubbles platform loafers are common, but so are non-alternative fashion heeled short boots.
Suna Kei Brand List[]
- Snidel
- Pium
- Michell Macaron
- Evelyn
- Rojita and Couture by Rojita
- Dear My Love Rose
Hair and Makeup[]
A commonality between all these substyles is the makeup, with some even saying that the makeup is what defines Jirai Kei. While the clothes change, this aspect of the look stays the same.
An illustration of the typical hairstyles by Akagumi-chan.
Hime-cut bangs, which are straight bangs across the forehead with side bangs around chin-length, are extremely popular amongst young women in Japan in general as it is an easy way to archive the illusion of a small face. It fits in with the ultra-feminine style. Because these women are Japanese and around high school age, the most common hair color is black, since dyed hair is not allowed in schools. However, some girls add highlights that can be bleached blonde or in different shades of pink.
In terms of styling, pigtails (also called twin tails), are the majority hairstyle. They can be either low or high, with high pigtails often being half-up half-down. Girls often curl the ends and decorate these twin tails with ribbons and bows, often with the same faux jewels on their brooches. Other hair accessories such as rectangle headdresses, headbands with faux jewels, and bobby pins with charms are popular too.
Jirai makeup can be more subtle and delicate or more exaggerated and eerie. Makeup artist credit in lower right corners on Red Note.
For the eye makeup, the most popular is an exaggerated version of the "namida bukuro" makeup style where the tear bags are emphasized to look puffy as if the wearer is about to cry, which is further highlighted with pink undereye blush. The additional effect of appearing sickly is also desired. The eyeliner is downturned to give a more "puppy-like" , feminine and sad appearance. In more over-the-top styles, there is also something called the "Jirai line," where the wearer fakes even bigger eyes through drawing a curve connecting their eyeliner to the pupil to make a fake bottom eyelash line. These types of looks also draw on fake eyelashes to account for the fact that their real eyelash line is left nude to fake a larger eye. Eyebrows are straight and slightly downturned to continue the sad effect.
Face and lip makeup are equally pink, with blush and sparkly highlighter being high on the cheekbones. Lip makeup has a wide variation, with some looks being more matte, some glossy, some sculpted, some even.
Many additional cosmetic products are also used for exaggerated features. Fake lashes are generally popular in Japan, and in Jirai Kei, they are longer and spikier. Dark circle lenses are also popular, and serve to make the eyes look bigger and anime-like.
Long acrylic nails are also popular and often feature lace patterns, faux jewels, corset lacing, crosses, as well as stereotypical motifs like the pleading face emoji.
Media[]
Literature[]
- Host Madness - Oizumi Rika
- Kabukicho Moratorium - Chiwawa Sasaki
- People Who Overdose - Chiwawa Sasaki
- The Disease of Pien: Consumption and Approval of the SNS Generation - Chiwawa Sasaki
Manga[]
- Ashita, Watashi wa Dareka no Kanojo - Tomorrow, I'll Be Someone's Girlfriend
- Android wa Jirai-kei no Yume wo Miru - Android Dreams of a Jirai Kei Girl
- Kiken na Ren'ai - Dangerous Love
- Kimi ni Aisarete Itakatta - It Hurts To Be Loved By You
- Jirai Kareshi - My Boyfriend's a Ticking Time Bomb
- Jirai-kei JK to Onee-chan no Hanashi - The Landmine Girl and Her Sister
- Jirai Ninja Ruru no Shitsuren - Jirai Ninja Ruru's Heartbreak
- KakaKano - Dating the Kind of Girl You Shouldn't Get Involved With
- Koi wa Jirai wo Funde kara - A Love That Begins After Stepping On A Mine
- Mitame Jirai-kei Osananajimi - My Childhood Friend Looks Like A Landmine But Isn't
- Yamaarashi no Shisha (ヤマアラシのシーシャ)
- Zenma (銭麻)
Television[]
- Ashita, Watashi wa Dareka no Kanojo
- Cinderella Complex
- Ishiko and Haneo: You're Suing Me? (episode 7)
- The Black Swindler (episode 8)
Video Games[]
- JIRAIYA
- Needy Streamer Overload
- Sentimental Deathloop
- Suteki na Kanojo no Tsukurikata
- Yandere ura Kano Jirai-chan
- Yamikore
- Love Angel Syndrome
Music[]
Songs[]
- Alice*Iris - Daikirai Lie Suki
- Alice*Iris - Gimme Me Love
- Amu - Pien Syndrome
- Amu - Mekka Warning
- Cagayake - Unleash
- Chilldspot - Ai Ai
- DECO*27 - The Vampire
- EMIRI - Self-destructive girl
- Isana - Menhera Janai Mon!
- Iyowa - Kyuukurarin
- Hiiragi Magnetite - Pet me
- HoneyWorks - Kawaikute Gomen
- Kuraisekai - So Pien My Life
- KAFU - Egonomy
- Kai - Unicorn Girl
- Kai - Lose the Princess
- Kairiki Bear - Darling Dance
- Kairiki Bear - Venom
- Kareki Kashiwagi - Ikayaki-Wristed Girl
- LiLiPi - Shukipi Overdose
- Magnetite Hiiragi feat. KAFU - Pet Me
- Maretu - Darling
- Maretu - Girl Eraser
- Maretu- IYAIYAYO
- Maretu - Pink
- Mitsu Akuma - My Ex-Blocker
- Monoclone - Kakou Shite Nani ga Warui!
- NAKISO - Retry now
- Ojeimaru feat. Ice - Raspbunny
- Pien Big Four - Kimi Shika Katan!
- Pien Big Four - Watashi ga No. 1 jinsei ~Omae wa Wakiyaku~
- Puku - Lovely Shoujo
- Rosu - Uwaki??
- Ruru - Yabai Okusuri
- Shin - Neon
- Syudou - Cute Na Kanojo
- Takayan - Escape when it's tough
- Takayan - Sinking is better!
- Takayan - Want to kill, but I love you
- TUYU - Under Heroine
- TUYU - Under Kids
- Twinpale - BAD to LIP
- YukimuraChan!,picco- LIBRA- YukimuraChan! Ver
Criticism[]
The typical bag contents of a "landmine girl" illustrated, including box cutters.
Due to the roots of the term, Jirai Kei is highly associated with dark and disturbing themes that are also very prevalent within the subculture. There are strong associations with mental illness, self harm, drug usage, sex work, underage prostitution, and other uncomfortable subjects. The negative aspects of the "landmine" stereotype are often emulated and romanticized as a quirky gimmick solely for aesthetic reasons.[7] On Twitter in particular, it's not uncommon for followers of the subculture to constantly promote self-destructive behaviour, the accounts often being part of shtwt (self-harm twitter) and edtwt (eating disorder twitter).[6] There's also a strong association with "bangya" culture with landmine girls also being stereotyped as groupies who are obsessive over their favorite bands and music artists to an unhealthy degree.
Another problem is the fetishization of the "landmine" stereotype, which is a glimpse into the wider topic of sexualizing women who exhibit mental illness. It is problematic for its ableist rhetoric claiming mentally-ill women to be "freaky", "hot but crazy" and more desirable sexually and emotionally, as well as its infantalistic undertone of these women being more emotionally attached and dependent on their lover's affection.[8] This fetishization of mentally ill women and use of the femme-fatale archetype ignores the unpleasant nuances of suffering from BPD or bipolar disorder and targets women who are mentally vulnerable to emotionally abusive, power-imbalanced relationships.[9]
Because the clothes worn are often very brand specific, some Jirai Kei netizens suggest that there is slight elitism in the community for purchasing items from the "correct" stores, regardless of if the price can be prohibitively expensive, particularly for western followers that endure high shipping fees from Japanese brand proxies. On social media, especially on TikTok, some argue that this brand-focused side of Jirai Kei encourages hyper consumerism and trend-cycling while the same is also said for those who buy cheap replica items from problematic fast fashion stores like Shein/Romwe.
As discussed in the culture section, some Western Jirai maintain that those who are not mentally ill cannot wear the style or utilize the hashtag. As the subculture can't be separated from its problematic parts precisely because they are what make Jirai Kei what it is, many have argued that its name shouldn't be used in a throwaway manner in reference to styles or trends in order to not expose strangers to potential triggering content.
However, instead of expressing concern and offering the alternative "dark and sweet girly" label, some girls cyberbully non-mentally ill Jirai and may even say one cannot wear Girly Kei at all. Of course, this also has a negative outcome for more impressionable people, especially teenagers, who would want to adopt mentally ill behaviors in order to fit into a subculture and be "more" Jirai and avoid gatekeeping comments. These gatekeeping comments, however, are a response to western Jirai who make videos looking down on the mentally ill stereotype, and who seek to divorce the fashion from its dark origin.
Another instance of western gatekeeping is the term "jiraimaxxing,” often used on TikTok, which means becoming the most Jirai one can be. While sometimes used as a troll term to mock the subculture's existing gatekeeping, it also describes a more extreme version of the same lookist mentality of the originator of the suffix, looksmaxxing. That community picks apart personal appearance and places people on rating scales. "Jiraimaxxers" adopt similar tactics, bullying those who do not adhere to their strict standards (being thin, wearing extreme platforms, etc.). This behavior can even include compiling lists of "chopped" (ugly) Jirai accounts, which often shame AMAB and Black individuals.
Non-jiraimaxxing Jirai are also criticized for being lookist in general. Much of the community is concerned with appearing cute, including the use of filters, extreme makeup, being concerned with weight, and having certain facial features that appear "more Jirai." So, those who are already conventionally attractive gain the most praise, and those who do not fit the strict beauty standard of the community may develop body dysmorphia.
Resources[]
For further reading, please read its page on the Jfashion Wiki.
Blogs[]
Vendors[]
- Ank Rouge
- Amilige
- Bubbles
- Darrdy
- DearMyLove
- Lafary
- LIZ LISA
- MA*RS
- Noemie
- Reflem
- Rojita
- Subcul Zirai
- Travas Tokyo
- Viviene Westwood
- Yosuke USA
Gallery[]
References[]
- ↑ Absolutely the largest eyes!! I will explain landmine girl makeup ⚡️ A mass-produced wota with droppy eyes and black hair in yami kawaii [fraud makeup] - YouTube
- ↑ "Toyoko Kids" Children gathering in Kabukicho, Shinjuku - NHK
- ↑ Hidden side of Tokyo: TOYOKO KIDS – Runaway Teens in Kabukicho - NUTS.TOKYO
- ↑ Girls Standing In The Middle of Tokyo to Sell Themselves.. Japan Has A Serious Developing Problem. - YouTube
- ↑ As seen from the brand "Noemie"
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 Even self-harm is a trend now? The Ecology of "Pien Girls" - Daily SPA!
- ↑ Korean Landmine Girls, Lives of Runaway Youths in 2023 - YouTube
- ↑ "Crazy, Sexy & Great in Bed": Why Some Men Target Mentally Ill Women - Refinery 29
- ↑ The Men Who Fetishize Mentally Ill Women - VICE
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