Reason for Warning: This page contains brief mentions of underage drinking and drug abuse.
Indie Sleaze is an aesthetic that describes the hedonistic, global party scene that flourished from roughly 2005 to 2014. It represented a more "authentic" and debaucherous reaction to the polished McBling culture of the early-mid 2000s, reflecting the economic uncertainty and creative energy of the late-aughts. The era's visual identity is inextricably linked to the raw, voyeuristic, and high-flash photography of documentarians like The Cobrasnake, which captured the messy, maximalist fashion of the time. The look was an eclectic mix of high and low: American Apparel basics were paired with ripped tights, vintage band t-shirts, skinny jeans, and neon accents.
Musically, the aesthetic is synonymous with the Bloghouse phenomenon, where indie rock, electro, and dance-punk acts like LCD Soundsystem, M.I.A., and Crystal Castles gained popularity through music blogs and MySpace. During its time, Indie Sleaze also overlapped with the Hipster scene, coming from the taste in music, fashion, and lifestyle that differed from mainstream available multinational brands and pop music and required "being in the know" to understand.
The term Indie Über-Sleaze was coined in 2018 by Dalia Barillaro of the Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute (CARI), renamed to simply "Indie Sleaze" in 2021. In 2021, the shortened term went viral on TikTok, leading to revived interest in the aesthetic. Indie Sleaze captures a specific "grimy-glam" moment, that existed between the decline of mainstream McBling and the rise of polished Instagram influencer culture.
History[]
Popularity[]
One of the most influential people in this aesthetic is the photographer Mark Hunter, also known as The Cobrasnake. He attended parties and clubs populated by celebrities and people who would later be considered "it" in order to document this culture. His use of flash photography and candid shots made his website (thecobrasnake.com) become viral online, and later influenced the way others shot Indie Sleaze photos.[1]
As for fashion, the virality of the brand American Apparel made it the de facto source of many Indie Sleaze staples, while their advertisements inspired the raunchy, realistic images of the aesthetic. Because of these photos, certain figures became "it girls" online, as fashion bloggers noticed their look and admired their style. Cory Kennedy, Alexa Chung, and Sky Ferreira are some examples of people who were photographed. The aesthetic also received more mainstream recognition after the release of Skins (UK). The television show's promotional material mimicked Indie Sleaze photographers' styles, and the plot focused on partying and drugs.
Decline and Successors[]
The aesthetic later declined due to increasing mainstream popularity and the advent of Instagram and other social media. With the popularization of social media, people felt the need to be more polished and curate the image posted online or else familiar people would recognize them and take offense to the uninhibited activities of candid photos[2] and possibly make it harder for job searching and college acceptances.
However, Indie Sleaze influenced its successor Pale Grunge on Tumblr. Specific garments such as the American Apparel tennis skirt, jelly shoes, and ringer tees remained popular in that aesthetic, albeit in black and white as opposed to the mismatched bright colors of Indie Sleaze. The use of flash photography also carried over into Tumblr Grunge, where people utilized this style to depict exciting happenings in the dark. Also, the hipster desire to be "indie," or separate from the mainstream and ahead of trends, continued throughout internet and aesthetic culture in general.
Revival[]
In 2018, Dalia Barillaro of the Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute (CARI) coined the term "Indie Über-Sleaze" and created a Facebook group for documenting examples of the aesthetic. In 2021, the term was shortened to "Indie Sleaze" by the group admins. Different figures also specifically pushed for the revival of Indie Sleaze early on, such as Meg Superstar Princess and The Dare.
In 2021, TikTok trend forecaster Mandy Lee (@oldloserinbrooklyn) posted videos on Indie Sleaze. This led to Generation Z users on TikTok developing an interest in the aesthetic, some of which had been too young to participate in its original era; the Instagram account indiesleaze started reposting these sorts of images in 2021.[3] Another possible reason for this revival is that after the pandemic, young adults wanted to return to nightlife and celebrate crowded parties.
However, some people (often those who participated in the original era) argue that the revival is a shadow of the original. Largely, the aesthetic has become more performative and polished due to social media and the use of aesthetic categories[4]. Another argument is that much of the original Indie Sleaze did not exist, as it was not a unified aesthetic. Rather, they were disparate looks by people who did not attempt to follow a single scene.[5]
The revival was also partially brought on by "brat summer," the viral internet meme created by Charli XCX and her release of the album brat, which is composed of the same electronic dance music popular during this era. Music videos and promotional materials also emphasized a visual aesthetic based on messiness and partying.[6]
Visuals[]
A large part of the aesthetic's look is the usage of flash photography. This was done out of necessity because clubs and parties are typically dark, with the flash highlighting the people. As a note, all images relating to Indie Sleaze include photographs of people.
Fashion[]
Part of Indie Sleaze photography originally was the unique outfits of every person at the party, which make the setting look varied but communicates the personal style of the attendees. So, Indie Sleaze includes a mix of different fashion styles and aesthetics, but there are still a relatively common number of trends resulting from the era the style comes from. One of the biggest markers of the fashion is the use of statement pieces, often found in thrift stores. This would be incongruous to the rest of the outfit and are outlandish in size, texture, or color.
As a note, the sections below are not "substyles," but rather general motifs that people draw from. Much of the appeal of Indie Sleaze in the 2010s was that it reflects the wearer's own personal style and was not worn for social media, so styling was often experimental and laid-back, picking and choosing from the trends listed below.
Kinderwhore and Twee[]
Kinderwhore fashion is one pre-established style that often appears in Indie Sleaze, especially with certain It Girls like Sky Ferreira and Alexa Chung. In it, the wearers (always female) wear girly, vintage dresses with collars and lace, which connects to the thrifted clothing motif. This "innocent" garment would contrast with grunge-y legwear and shoes and the debauched setting of an Indie Sleaze party.
As discussed above, Indie Sleaze was originally part of the Hipster umbrella, meaning Hipster trends crossed over because people who followed other types of Hipster "aesthetics" would also appear at these parties. Twee fashion trends, such as bubble hems, lace, tights under shorts, and retro-inspired pieces could be seen in these photos.
"Hedi Slimane" Look and Glamorous Grunge[]
Indie Sleaze fashion is heavily inspired by Hedi Slimane, whose work from 2000 to 2007 for Dior Homme featured inspiration from alternative fashion and music subcultures. During the 2000s, Justice, Daft Punk, The Libertines, and The Strokes[7] (the musicians making music considered Indie Sleaze) were styled by Slimane, but much of the look is now retroactive, with the Indie Sleaze revival in the 2020s coining the "Hedi Slimane boy." This is especially popular among those interested in archive fashion and fans of the band "The Hellp," who wear Slimane pieces.
The female counterpart for the look can be inspired by Slimane's work for Yves Saint Laurent from 2012 to 2016, when he was creative director for both men and women's clothing.
The look Hedi Slimane designed is characterized by a slim fit. So, suits would be tailored close to the wearer's body, and skinny jeans and tight trousers were the bottoms.
As discussed, alternative fashion and music inspired Slimane, which is reflected in his materials. Black leather, reflective material, flannels (originating from Seattle Grunge), and studs are some common motifs.
Some specific garments that were commonly featured in this sort of look include:
- Leather jackets styled after bikers
- Bomber jackets
- Band tees, especially combined with formalwear, like suits
- Classic black suits in slim fit with skinny ties
Eclectic Basics[]
This look largely originates from American Apparel advertisements, with the company selling basics in a variety of colors. In their catalogue are items such as V-neck tee shirts, colored tights, micro-shorts, ringer tees, dolphin shorts, tank tops, etc. American Apparel's variety of colors, including reflective fabrics, were often styles in a way that does not coordinate, often looking random.
Ironic Fashion[]
Part of the Hipster scene includes motifs of irony, which, in the context of fashion, includes deliberately "ugly" or goofy pieces that don't fit the context of the setting. For example, fur hats, which are super warm, are worn in contrast with a relatively skimpy outfit. Tee shirts with strange slogans or brands which are childish and strange can also be a example.
Music[]
The music largely associated with the indie sleaze era is a combination of several different genres from different time periods, namely: Indie rock, Britpop, Disco, and Electro Pop. The common through line through found throughout much of indie sleaze music is danceability, irony, and a retro sound.
Albums[]
- The Ark - We Are The Ark (2000)
- New Order - Get Ready (2001)
- The Libertines - The Libertines (2004)
- LCD Soundsystem - LCD Soundsystem (2005)
- JL Murat - Mockba (2005)
- Arctic Monkeys - Whatever People Say I Am, That's What I'm Not (2006)
- Yelle - Pop up (2007)
- Daft Punk - Alive 2007 (2007)
- Crystal Castles - Crystal Castles (2008)
- N.E.R.D - Seeing Sounds (2008)
- Lady Gaga - The Cherrytree Sessions (2009)
- Los Amigos Invisibles - Commercial (2009)
- Ke$ha - Animal (2010)
- Uffie - Sex Dreams and Denim Jeans (2010)
- Two Door Cinema Club - Tourist History (2010)
- Far East Movement - Free Wired (2010)
- Ke$ha - Cannibal (2010)
- Ke$ha - I Am the Dance Commander + I Command You to Dance: The Remix Album (2011)
- MNDR - Feed Me Diamonds (2012)
- Arctic Monkeys - AM (2013)
Musicians[]
- Arctic Monkeys
- The Ark
- Azealia Banks
- Basement Jaxx
- Boomkat
- Cobra Starship
- Crystal Castles
- Cult Member
- The Dare
- Empire of the Sun
- Far East Movement
- Franz Ferdinand
- George Clanton
- Grimes
- The Hellp
- JL Murat
- Katy Perry
- Ke$ha
- Lady Gaga
- LCD Soundsystem
- Lil Uzi Vert
- Los Amigos Invisibles
- Metric
- MGMT
- Mike Posner
- MNDR
- N.E.R.D
- Justice
- The Libertines
- Neon Indian
- New Order
- Passion Pit
- Pastel Ghost
- princess paparazzi
- Snow Strippers
- The Ting Tings
- Two Door Cinema Club
- Uffie
- Washed Out
- Yeah Yeah Yeahs
- Yelle
Songs[]
- Hummer - Foals
- Indie Rokkers - MGMT
- The Power Is On - The Go! Team
- Disparate Youth - Santigold
- Let's Dance To Joy Division - The Wombats
- Walking On A Dream - Empire Of The Sun
- I Bet You Look Good On The Dancefloor - Arctic Monkeys
- We Are Your Friends - Justice, Simian
- Pursuit Of Happiness - Kid Kudi, MGMT, Rattan
- Acceptable in the 80's - Calvin Harris
- Heads Will Roll (A-Trak Remix) - Yeah Yeah Yeahs, A-Trak
- Bulletproof - La Roux
- Paper Planes - M.I.A
- VCR - The XX
- Royals - Lorde
- Boss Bitch - Doja Cat
- Bad Girls - M.I.A
- N.E.R.D - Everyone Nose (All The Girls Standing In The Line For The Bathroom)
Movies & TV Shows[]
- High Fidelity (2000)
- Project X (2012)
- Spring Breakers (2012)
- Skins UK (2007-2013)
- The Bling Ring (2013)
- Scott Pilgrim vs the World (2010)
- 22 Jump Street (2014)
- Mysterious Skin (2004)
- Kaboom (2010)
- Thirteen (2003)
- Saltburn (2023)
Timeline[]
The aesthetic began around 2005 but peaked in popularity from 2008-2010 with many musicians and fashion models incorporating it. This popularity is often attributed to people adopting the style for its optimism during the Great Recession. As it declined in popularity after 2012, the aesthetic began to change, becoming more complex and colorful. In 2021, the aesthetic was popularized online and gained the name "indie sleaze".[8]
The indie band Metric and its singer-songwriter Emily Haines remained active from the 1990s to present, showing its changes from around 2013-2014.
Criticism[]
Indie Sleaze has been criticized for perpetuating drug/substance abuse, since a lot of participants were smoking cigarettes and/or drinking alcohol at parties, which raised concern due to minors getting involved.
Gallery[]
References[]
- ↑ https://www.vogue.com/article/the-cobrasnake-y2ks-archive-mark-hunter-book-indie-sleaze
- ↑ https://www.vogue.com/article/the-cobrasnake-y2ks-archive-mark-hunter-book-indie-sleaze
- ↑ https://www.vice.com/en/article/the-indie-sleaze-revival-isnt-real-its-just-an-echo-chamber/
- ↑ https://www.vogue.com/article/indie-sleaze-revival-vogue-fashion-writers-debate
- ↑ https://www.vice.com/en/article/the-indie-sleaze-revival-isnt-real-its-just-an-echo-chamber/
- ↑ https://www.elle.com/fashion/shopping/a61559021/editor-brat-summer-outfits/
- ↑ https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/hedi-boys-meaning-tiktok
- ↑ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a38746992/the-return-of-indie-sleaze/