Dollette

Dollette is a variant of the Coquette aesthetic that is largely based on delicate hyperfeminine fashion and visuals such as soft pink hues, cosmetic products, and floral motifs. The name originated in the mid-to-late 2010s, but after a revival, it changed visual styles and became more popular on Pinterest and TikTok with increasing influence in mainstream fashion^[1]. Note: Coquette is the most-used name for the fashion, but the wiki utilizes "coquette" as a disambiguation page for many aesthetics tagged as coquette in the past.

While the aesthetic derived from the Nymphet community, it differed from the initial Nymphet aesthetic, which is heavily based on the Vintage Americana aesthetic and fashion of the various movie interpretations based on the book Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov; whereas Dollette, while still carrying on the Nymphet aesthetic, takes more inspiration from Delicate Sweet, Pink Parisian, and Balletcore. Dollette is still derived from Nymphet though and is a Coquette aesthetic, despite often being confused with any non-coquette Girly aesthetic. same love for Lana del Rey and the growing appreciation of feminine traits led to the rapid growth of this aesthetic. The community also shares many visuals with the Waif aesthetic, however it has no connection to mental illnesses or abrasive personality traits.

Because of the frequent use of this term, some have turned this aesthetic into a meme, with random items incongruous to the aesthetic being turned "cockette," a term for mocking the name and often paired with the pleading face emoji.

The trend has also been highly associated with secondhand clothing online sites, such as Depop, where people began to use the term Coquette to describe hyperfeminine vintage pieces.

History[]

The aesthetic's predecessor is Nymphet, which was popular on Tumblr in the mid-2010s but later reduced in size due to the aesthetic's controversy; the basis of the aesthetic is on a pedophilic relationship and there were groomers deliberately targeting the community. Subsequently, multiple social media platforms removed blogs and blocked the tag. For more information on the history of the community, check the article. Another 2010s Tumblr aesthetic at the time which was Delicate Sweet, which also heavily inspired Dollette fashion.

Tumblr waned in popularity after the ban on pornography in 2018, and teenagers moved onto Instagram, VSCO (which is now unpopular), Pinterest and TikTok. Because of this, people had largely abandoned 2010s Tumblr aesthetics.

However, because of the pandemic, people revisited 2010s Tumblr aesthetics, possibly because of nostalgia.^[2] There was also the rise of podcasts and influencers who experienced the Nymphet aesthetic firsthand, such as Nymphet Alumni and The Red Scare, who gained in popularity and would spread awareness of what Nymphet was. Nymphet Alumni specifically discussed the pedophilia and trauma of the community^[3], while The Red Scare promotes the sexually submissive and hyperfeminine "tradwife" persona and created hype for the brand Brandy Melville^[4].

After this renewed interest, Coquette (the most used name for the aesthetic) gained millions of views on TikTok since 2020, with major websites such as Vogue reporting on the trend.

Because of this virality and awareness, multiple fashion brands incorporated coquette elements into their product line.

People who are also not in the community see the increibly repetitive motif of bows, and then proceeded to meme the aesthetic by tying pink ribbon bows onto random objects, such as pasta, vapes, and toilet paper.^[5] Often, these videos will have the caption “Cockette” and use a TikTok audio of a duo poorly singing “Brooklyn Baby” by Lana del Rey.

Visuals[]

Dollette, as discussed, is extremely girly. This is especially present in the use of color, which includes soft pinks, white, ivory, and metals. Occasionally, other pastels, red, or black may be introduced. This aesthetic, like many other viral ones, is especially versatile in that it relies on certain motifs that can be utilized in different ways, such as in fashion and home decor. Bows, ribbons, hearts, gingham and other types of plaid, and ditsy floral, a pattern with miniature flowers, are the most identifiable traits.

Because the most common expression of this aesthetic is fashion, the backdrop of these videos also express the aesthetic. Bedrooms are dollette spaces, and the interior design matches the feminine and vintage connotations, often being inspired by Shabby Chic. Specifically, bedrooms have cozy and princess-y details such as Rococo-inspired frames, chandeliers, layered textiles, and vintage furniture, similar to the Pink Princess aesthetic.

While this aesthetic is most often expressed through fashion and interior design that is accessible to teenagers, certain feminine photographic subjects occasionally appear, albeit less often. One of these is ballet imagery, such as pointe shoes, dancers wearing pink, etc. This imagery would be happier, lighter, and more pink in comparison to Waif.

In addition to the girly imagery, romance-related imagery is popular. Pink and white roses, lipstick kisses, love letters, and romance novels (especially laid on top of a bed) are common photos, similar to what is seen in the Romantic/Coquette Academia aesthetics. However, unlike Nymphet, there are no images of the men or any sexuality that relates to the object of romanticizing.

Baked goods that have cute qualities, such as elaborately decorated cakes in a vintage style, heart-shaped anything, strawberry or vanilla flavored things, etc. are often featured in videos and accompany vintage tea cups. This increases the vintage girly elements in comparison to other aesthetics considered in the Coquette umbrella.

As a dark side to the aesthetic, some photos show cigarettes, alcohol, and cocaine, which is a connection to the original Dark Nymphet aesthetic, Lana del Rey's music, and Waif. However, this is rare in comparison to the other minor motifs.

Designer brands and logos, such as Dior, are often shown as signs of wealth and luxury.

Fashion[]

The use of soft and feminine fabrics such as silk, chiffon, and satin is common in the fashion. These fabrics enhance the sensual atmosphere of the style. There are many bows, ribbons, frills, and lace trims to add a playful sweetness to the overall look.

Fashion in this style is incredibly variable, and mainly includes largely mainstream outfits using easily found basics enhanced with girly details(with Brandy Melville being the most popular store), and can also include fantasy-inspired fashion(such as in whimsical coquette), or clothing taken from 2000s Japanese girly fashion(which is also very similar to dollette, in that it is inspired by both Japanese nymphet as well as French girly fashion).

Part of the trend is upcycling clothing, often taking a non-aesthetic-specific piece such as a plain black tee shirt and adding the above motifs to it.

Tops[]

The tops of Dollette fashion are the most distinct feature of photos, as some tops are extremely popular and become highly sought-after items on the secondhand market. One of these are white eyelet cotton puffed sleeve milkmaid blouses. They are called milkmaid style because the bust area is gathered while the torso is fitted. This creates a sexy and feminine silhouette that resembles the traditional clothing of milkmaids in idealized western European historical fashion. One example of a milkmaid top that is popular is the Brandy Melville "Blair" top, which is known for being Tiktok-famous^[6].

The Bebe "milkmaid" top sold for a high price, which influenced people to look for more of these "milkmaid tops." These are not the true milkmaid tops described above. Rather, they are faux two-piece tops (often called twofers) where it resembles a scooped neck sweater with a fake straight neckline "tank" in a contrasting color and contains girly details like ruffles, pintucks, and buttons. Many sellers on Depop import them from Japan.

However, more basic and buyable tops are doable in this aesthetic. Scoop neck jersey tees (often long sleeved) with a lace camisole underneath and peeking through, which is a copy of a 2000s trend, can be purchased anywhere. Pointelle jersey tees, especially with a floral pattern, ruching at the bust, lace trim, or ribbon have also become popular amongst mall brands after the Brandy Melville tops became desirable.

Babydoll tops, which have an empire waist and flare from that seam, are also quite popular and can come from Japan or the 2000s. Like the milkmaid tops, puffed sleeves, sweetheart necklines, bows, etc. are common motifs.

For a warmer option, cable-knit sweaters are common in the aesthetic and have a preppy connotation.

Bottoms[]

Pleated skirts are one of the most common pieces used in fashion because of their association with schoolgirls, a youthful and feminine subject. The more mainstream interpretation also includes short denim skirts.

In Coquette, roomwear is incredibly common. Shorts made of jersey material for the purpose of lounging often features in videos, and as previously mentioned, largely originates from Brandy Melville and is mostly worn as part of a set.

In terms of pants, jeans with details like heart-shaped embellishments and/or cutouts on the knees, sequins, pearls, and floral elements are often found in casual coquette fashion and many of its different subsections and subcategories.

Outerwear[]

Because of the influence of Balletcore, tight-fitting zip-up jackets commonly worn by athletes and dancers after practice are commonly worn, often coming in pink and gray to enhance the ballet motif, similar to in Pink Pilates Princess. Another interpretation is using an over-sized zip-up jacket, which has a more casual and masculine connotation to contrast the girly appearance.

Cardigans are another commonly worn outer piece, with the fit and length being variable. This includes bolero cardigans, which are also inspired by Balletcore and 2000s fashion.

Accessories[]

Accessories are the most important part of this aesthetic, as the inclusion of them distinguishes a "normal" outfit from a dollette/coquette one. Many of the pieces used are incredibly trendy and highly sought after, which makes it a recognizable marker of being part of the aesthetic in public.

The most popular is the Vivienne Westwood pearl and orb necklace. Because of the fact that it is from a designer brand and quite expensive, this is a status symbol and often imitated. Regular pearl necklaces are another substitute.

An edgier take on the aesthetic can involve crucifix necklaces, which originate from the increasing fashionability of Catholicism as a romantic and dramatic subculture.

As previously discussed, bows and ribbons are the biggest markers of the aesthetic. This can be incorporated into many parts of an outfit, such as tied or clipped into hair, on a backpack or purse, around the neck, as shoelaces, etc.

Substyle[]

Shoujo/Japanese Dollette[]

Around 2020, many Dollette people who where aware of Japanese Girly fashion began to buy clothes on the secondhand market and resell it in the West, often at an upcharge. These clothes matched the Coquette/Dollette motifs through bows, lace, ribbon, etc. but are distinct from the mainstream interpretation of Coquette/Dollette, which uses clothes from the West with heavy accessorizing, as opposed to clothes from Japan wherein the elements are part of the garment.

Because of this, fans of the Japanese-sourced clothes wanted to find a new tag from Coquette. They also often include TikTok audios from Shoujo and Josei anime and edits that are not commonly seen in Dollette. Fans then attributed "Himekaji" to this style of Dollette, but TikTok users strongly pointed out that these two fashion styles are different^[7].

The key to this style is the Clothes. This style will almost always have pink in the outfit, although non-pink outfits have also been gaining popularity as the substyle branches off. Clothes are comfortable but still flattering. It will be less accessorized then Hime Gyaru. Some examples are lace off-the-shoulder sweaters, mini frilly skirts, mini denim skirts, light flared jeans Henley tops, floral pattern tops, silk tops, cute dusty pink jackets. For accessories you can use simply girly ones such as hair bows, lace necklaces, hair flowers, marry janes, heels, open toed pink sandals, scarf, and a frilly bag to finish it off. A line feminine skirts medium or short length. Feminine textures such as lace, faux fur, satin, and frills. Cute accessories such as gloves or bags and even hair accessories Blouse or cardigan or a floral top would work. The old era of Himekaji fashion is more simpler while the new is more stylized. There is still some debate in the Coquette community over whether this subtype counts as being part of Coquette, especially since it doesn’t have any connection to Nymphet.

Music[]

Lana Del Rey

Sweet
Radio
Say Yes To Heaven
Brooklyn Baby
Stargirl Interlude
The Other Woman
Watercolour Eyes
Sad Girl
Art deco
Cherry
Diet Mountain Dew
Video Games

Kali Uchis

Melting
Dead to me

Melanie Martinez

Pity Party
Cake
Void

Elita

Sour Switchblade
She bangs like a fairy on acid
Introverted

Media[]

Books[]

Anna Karenina by Leo Tolstoy

Movies[]

Anastasia (1997)
Ballet Shoes (2007)
Clueless (1995)
Emma (2020)
Candy (1968)
Marie Antoinette (2006)
Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day (2008)
Mrs Harris Goes to Paris (2022)
Titanic (1997)
Enola Holmes (2020)
Where the Crawdads Sing (2022)
Priscillia (2023)

TV Shows[]

Find Me in Paris (2018-2020)
The Dick Van Dyke Show (1961-1966)
The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017-)
The Pursuit of Love (2021)
War & Peace (2016)
Angelina Ballerina (2001)
Sylvanian Family (1987)

Others[]

Jolie notebooks by Tilibra

Resources[]

External links to help get a better understanding of this aesthetic.

Blogs[]

Coquette-Club

Vendors[]

Brandy Melville
Cider
Liz Lisa
Peroxide Juliet
Princess Polly
Unique Vintage
YesStyle
Vivienne Westwood
dior
chanel
YSL
Victoria secret
Too Faced

Criticism[]

Toxic Beauty Standards[]

Some members of this aesthetic also engage in "lookism," which is the hyperfixation on appearing beautiful to the point of toxicity. Many videos also outright promote beauty standards such as pale skin, button noses, "doe eyes," "keyhole lips," etc. in the form of subliminals and declarations of "x is so angelic/coquette/pretty". And with TikTok’s algorithm, people consuming content about desirable features may be advertised cosmetic surgery to achieve these features.

As POC content creators discuss, these traits are often only seen in white women, which may reinforce the idea that only white women can look ethereal and beautiful, which historically has been used to uplift whiteness while demeaning POC features as lesser.

This community also sometimes outright body shames or criticizes the looks of certain models in runway videos, criticize TikTok video creators' appearances in comments, and declare certain traits as undesirable. For example, one TikTok shows "angel vs. witch skulls"^[8].

With this is also the association with pro-Ana, which is a community that believes being anorexic is desirable and to be encouraged. Specfically, coquette users often post images of unhealthily thin models as inspiration, post ultra-restrictive meals under the guise of "aesthetic food," and post their incredibly small desired weights in their videos to the extent that the British government released an advisory warning parents against Coquette’s influence.^[9]Many TikTok creators also use filters to make their limbs and waists ultra-thin, which causes unaware people to think this level of skinniness is possible.

Pedophilia[]

For some time, the song "Put Me in a Movie" by Lana del Rey was viral in the community and used as a backdrop to normal aesthetic activities such as outfit posts. However, the song is explicitly about a girl or woman who was taken in and acts in a porn video with the line "You know you like little girls." The community's history of being descended from Nymphet adds to this criticism.

Secondhand Selling Practices[]

This aesthetic's fashion largely comes from Depop, an app that allows users to purchase secondhand clothing. Coquette fashion, especially the pieces originating from Japan or 2000s mall brands, are often marked up at least twice from the cost the seller purchased. For example, a seller may buy secondhand Japanese brands for $5 but mark it up to $50 on their Depop shop.