Casuals are a subculture within football characterized by the use of high-priced designer clothing and participation in hooliganism. This group is often referred to as "dressers" rather than "casuals," with regional terms like "perry boys," "trendies," and "scallies" also used. The subculture originated in the United Kingdom during the late 1970s. Young men attending football matches began wearing clothing from designer sportswear brands such as Burberry, Fred Perry, Sergio Tacchini, Lacoste, Fila, Lyle & Scott, and Ellesse. In the 1980s, Italian brands Stone Island and C.P. Company were also adopted.[1]
In 1985, media attention focused on the Cambridge "Main Firm," a group of Cambridge football supporters involved in a violent attack. The Daily Mirror described the group as wearing clothing such as Pringle jumpers, denims, and training shoes. This attire was indicative of the "casual" style that had developed within British working-class youth culture. Regional variations existed, with corduroy flares in Manchester and baggy jumpers and sheepskin coats in Liverpool. The style emphasized smart and expensive clothing, with a shift from Fred Perry and Pringle to higher-end sportswear and designer brands.
The casuals' style shared similarities with the 1960s mods. The subculture's origins are generally placed in the British northwest during the late 1970s and early 1980s, with the "Perry boys" in Manchester and Salford and the "scallies" in Liverpool. The Perry boys, named after their early use of Fred Perry shirts, emerged in Manchester during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Their style included Fred Perry shirts, Peter Werth polo shirts, Lee cords, Lois jeans, and Adidas Stan Smith trainers. A "wedge" haircut was common. Music tastes were varied, with soul and synth-pop being popular.
In Liverpool, the scallies adopted a similar style, but by the late 1970s, they began to favor European sportswear. Liverpool FC's success in European football competitions led to fans bringing back clothing from brands such as Adidas, Lacoste, Sergio Tacchini, Fila, Ellesse, and Kappa. The Italian Paninari also influenced the style.
Films and television programs including ID, The Firm, The Football Factory, and Green Street have depicted casuals. The documentary Casuals: The Story of the Legendary Terrace Fashion examines the subculture's fashion from the late 1970s into the 1980s.
History[]
The casual subculture originated in the British northwest during the late 1970s and early 1980s, with the emergence of the "Perry Boys" in Manchester and Salford, and the "Scallies" in Liverpool. The Perry Boys, named for their early adoption of Fred Perry shirts, exhibited a "soulboy-mod" style, incorporating items such as Peter Werth polo shirts, Lee cords, Lois jeans, and Adidas Stan Smith trainers. Their aesthetic was influenced by Northern Soul and the mod revival.
In Liverpool, the Scallies developed a similar style, but by the late 1970s, they began to favor European sportswear. Liverpool FC's success in European football competitions led to fans bringing back clothing from brands such as Adidas, Lacoste, Sergio Tacchini, Fila, Ellesse, and Kappa, which were not readily available in the UK. This was also influenced by the Italian Paninari.
In 1985, the Cambridge "Main Firm" drew media attention after a violent attack. The Daily Mirror described their attire, including Pringle jumpers and training shoes, as indicative of the developing "casual" style. Regional variations existed, with corduroy flares in Manchester and baggy jumpers and sheepskin coats in Liverpool.
The subculture reached its peak in the late 1980s, marked by an emphasis on expensive designer brands like Burberry and Aquascutum. By this time, authorities were more aware of the casual style.
The casual subculture experienced a decline with the rise of Acid House and rave culture in the late 1980s.[2] However, it resurfaced in the 1990s, coinciding with the Britpop era and events such as Euro 1996. During this period, brands like Stone Island, C.P. Company, Aquascutum, Paul & Shark, Armani, and Prada became prominent.
In the 2000s, films such as The Football Factory and The Firm contributed to a revival of the subculture. Brands like Weekend Offender and Marshall Artist emerged. The casual style persists, though its association with football hooliganism remains a point of contention.
Fashion[]
The Casual subculture is defined by its emphasis on expensive designer clothing. This style moved away from traditional football fan attire, favoring sportswear and high-end fashion. Favored brands included Adidas, Sergio Tacchini, Stone Island, Burberry, Fred Perry, Lacoste, Fila, Ellesse, Kappa, Lyle & Scott, C.P. Company, Peter Werth, Lois Jeans, and Lee Cords.
Regional variations existed. In Manchester and Salford, the "Perry Boys" favored Fred Perry polo shirts, Peter Werth polo shirts, Lee cords, Lois jeans, and Adidas Stan Smith trainers. Liverpool's "Scallies" adopted European sportswear, influenced by Liverpool FC's European travels and the Italian Paninari. In London, the term "dressers" was used.
The adoption of continental European brands was driven by fans traveling to European football matches, bringing back items unavailable in the UK. This created a sense of exclusivity and status. The style was also influenced by the mod subculture’s emphasis on smart, competitive dressing.
By the mid-1980s, the casual look was characterized by smart, expensive clothing, with a shift towards high-end sportswear. Regional variations included corduroy flares in Manchester and baggy jumpers and sheepskin coats in Liverpool.
The late 1980s saw the rise of Acid House and rave culture, leading to a temporary shift in fashion. However, the casual style resurfaced in the 1990s with an emphasis on even more expensive brands like Stone Island, C.P. Company, Aquascutum, Paul & Shark, Armani, and Prada.
The 2000s saw a revival influenced by films like The Football Factory and The Firm, introducing brands like Weekend Offender and Marshall Artist. Despite changes in specific brands, the core of the casual style, emphasizing expensive and exclusive designer wear, remains.
Hooliganism[]
The casual subculture is associated with football hooliganism. The adoption of designer clothing served multiple purposes, including evading police detection and establishing a sense of status and competition among rival football supporter groups, known as "firms." These firms, such as Leicester City's "Baby Squad" and West Ham's "ICF" (Inter City Firm), developed distinct identities, often based on their preferred clothing brands.
Rivalries between these firms were intense, leading to frequent confrontations both inside and outside football stadiums. The pursuit of rare and expensive designer clothing became a significant aspect of this rivalry, with "looking the part" becoming as important as physical confrontations. The attire of casuals, often described as "smartly dressed," was noted by the media in reports of football-related violence, as seen in the 1985 coverage of the Cambridge "Main Firm."
The use of expensive, non-traditional football attire was a deliberate choice to distinguish themselves from typical football hooligans, who traditionally wore more obvious markers of aggression. The casual style, therefore, became a tool for both identity formation and participation in football-related violence. The desire to own rare and expensive clothing created a sense of one-upmanship, both between rival firms and within individual firms. This competition extended beyond mere fashion, contributing to the dynamics of hooliganism.
Media[]
- Casuals: The Story of the Legendary Terrace Fashion (documentary)
- ID (1995)
- The Firm (1989, 2009)
- The Football Factory (2004)
- Green Street (2005)
Gallery[]
References[]
- ↑ "Casuals" on museumofyouthculture.com
- ↑ "Casual Culture History & Terrace Subculture" on 80scasualclassics.co.uk