Reason for Warning: This page contains discussion of racism, slavery and rape.
Black Ivy is an aesthetic centered on the subversion of norms within classic WASP preppy style. The term Black Ivy League specifically refers to a segment of Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCUs) in the United States that attract a majority of high-performing or affluent Black students. During and immediately after the American Civil Rights era, there was a conscious effort by prominent African American civil rights leaders, religious figures, students, musicians, activists, and public intellectuals to challenge the intolerance and social discrimination they faced. They did this through adopting clothing styles associated with New England and Southern WASP culture, while simultaneously incorporating elements popular within the African American community to maintain a connection to their heritage.
Prior to this, African Americans in proximity to, or otherwise exclusively interacting with, WASPs were often expected to conform by erasing social indicators of their Black heritage or underprivileged backgrounds. This created a significant internal conflict for African Americans across the country, particularly during the Great Migration. This tension was notably articulated by figures like Langston Hughes and James Baldwin. As a result, the visual aesthetics of Black Ivy aim to evoke the subdued elegance of Preppy and Old Money styles, contrasting with the perceived ostentation of the New Money aesthetic, all while retaining identifiable markers of African American tastes.
In the 2020s, Black Ivy has experienced renewed interest, largely popularized within preppy communities by the book titled Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style by Graham Marsh and Jason Jules. Although no formal movement to explicitly revive the aesthetic exists in the modern Black community, prominent figures continue to draw inspiration from it. For instance, ASAP Rocky and JAY-Z regularly pay homage to the Harlem Renaissance of 1918–1937. This aesthetic also encompasses a lifestyle element, characterized by organized support for historically Black and predominantly Black institutions, promoting opportunity, civic integrity, and cultural values.
History[]
In the North of the United States, many educated Black people (taking advantage of their relative freedom) took part in abolitionist and suffragist activities. They also provided support to stations of the Underground Railroad prior to the abolition of slavery. Later, during the Reconstruction Era, a number of them took part in various professions and grew quite wealthy in places including Brooklyn.
In the South, an elite started forming before the American Civil War among free Black people who managed to acquire property. Of the free people of color in North Carolina in the censuses from 1790 to 1810, 80 percent can be traced to African Americans free in Virginia during the colonial period. Most were descended from unions between free white women and enslaved or free Africans or African Americans. Free Black people migrated into frontier Virginia and then to other states over several generations in the colonial period, as did many of their neighbors. Extensive research into colonial court records, wills and deeds has demonstrated that most of those free families came from relationships or marriages between white women, servant or free, and Black men, servant, free or slave. Such relationships were part of the more fluid relationships among the working class before the boundaries of slavery hardened.
During slavery times, white slaveholders and others were known to rape enslaved African women, fathering mixed-race children. There were also slaveholders who had caring relationships, common-law marriages, and legal marriages to enslaved Black women. They sometimes freed such women and their children. Some slaveholders did provide for their mixed-race children by ensuring they were educated; in the earliest periods, they might be apprenticed to a trade or craft. In some cases, fathers arranged to settle property on their "natural" children. Whatever property the father passed on to the child was important in helping that person get a start in life. These mixed-race people in turn patterned their subsequent lives after "polite" white society. In some places, such as New Orleans, this coalesced into what was known as Plaçage.
In the South, the free Black elite often took leadership roles within the church, Black schools, and community. Natural leaders rose up from many different classes. Some developed catering businesses or other services that enabled them to take advantage of their white contacts through family and other connections. The Black elite also enjoyed the benefits of living within the white neighborhoods, which further isolated them from the darker-skinned African Americans and which caused many of them to blame them for the downward shifts in life-style choices. Some lighter skinned Black people even passed for white, and were assimilated into white society thereafter.
The Civil Rights Movement and affirmative action brought about many changes for the Black elite. As the old elite died away, a new Black elite emerged. Within its ranks are politicians, entrepreneurs, actors, singers, sports figures, and many more who are otherwise part of America's wider upper-middle class. The political leaders Barack Obama and Kamala Harris are prominent members of this new elite.
Other terms[]
Black Ivy League refers to a segment of the historically black colleges (HBCUs) in the United States that attract the majority of high-performing or affluent black students. Includes: Xavier University of Louisiana, Fisk University, Hampton University, Morehouse College, Spelman College, Howard University, Tuskegee University. Although there is a debate about the composition of the group, they shared certain historic characteristics. During the late 20th century, students who attended these schools were able to learn trades and acquire skills and status which put them in a distinctly different social class of black Americans. While these institutions were the favorites for upper-class blacks who chose to attend HBCU's prior to 1970, between 1970 and 1990, a large number of affluent blacks elected to attend predominantly white colleges and universities.
Black Elite refers to black people that have wealth, privilege, political influence, or skill. Academic usages can be more specific in reference to Gilded Age families descended from Free African-Americans, their organized societies, and their cultural attitudes.
Black Establishment refers to members of the black community in prominent positions of organized power.
Talented Tenth is a depreciated term in academia but occasionally used in reference to a principle based in WEB DuBois thought. Well cultivated and educated black Americans have a responsibility to build out opportunities for their local communities and personal support systems like family and friends. Some HBCU institutions, Fraternities, and Sororities advocate for this idea.
Bougee shorted from the term Bourgeoise. Bourgeoise in reference to the black community gained popularity from the book Black Bourgeoise (1957) and black communists within the broader 1960s-70s new left movement to deride wealthy members of the black community that were thought to be out of touch with class consciousness of predominantly lower-class black interests.
Black American Princess (BAP), is a (sometimes) pejorative term for African-American women of upper- and upper-middle-class background, who possess (or are perceived to possess) a spoiled or materialistic demeanor. While carrying "valley girl" overtones of the overly materialistic and style-conscious egotist, the term has also been reclaimed as a matter of racial pride to cover an indulged, but not necessarily spoiled or shallow, daughter of the emerging buppies or black urban middle class. At best, such figures carry with them through life a sense of civic pride, and of responsibility for giving back to their community. Stereotypically, younger BAPs are often members of Jack and Jill, a social and civic organization for upper-middle-class African-American youth. BAPs usually then go on to enroll in a "black Ivy" institution, mainly Spelman College, Hampton University, or Howard University, where many of them join either Alpha Kappa Alpha or Delta Sigma Theta sorority.
BAPs often later become members of The Girl Friends, Inc. or The Links, Incorporated, and pass in black enclaves of Sag Harbor, New York, or Oak Bluffs, Massachusetts. Many BAPs have friends in a variety of organizations, include Sigma Pi Phi fraternity and the National Association of Guardsmen, Inc.
Values[]
- Community
- Self-expression
- Cultivation
- Accomplishment
- Dignity
- Integrity
- Education
- Heritage
Visual[]
Black Ivy visuals indicate ethnic and racial solidarity through cultural signifiers heavily associated with people in the African Diaspora under the conventions of regional prep subcultures. Earth tones tend to incorporate more purples, greens, maroon, browns, yellows, khakis, golds, silvers, navys, and blacks compared to the lighter earth tone shades of Old Money and brighter tones of preppy.
Ethnic Heritage[]
Accessories could include pieces that reflect ethnic heritage such as Aggry and Kiffa beads, waist beads. Iconography of African religions or tribes may also be worked into jewelry like wristbands or necklaces. Fabric patterns could include design inspirations from African heritage. Home interiors often are a cross between traditional western culture styles and ethno-chic decorations.
HBCU Influence[]
under construction...
Consumerism[]
More often, Black Ivy turns in the direction of popular consumer staple items adopted into otherwise conventionally preppy outfits. Largely seen today in the popularity of Streetwear, Hip-hop, and Sports as influences in staples such as sneakers, chains, watches, and sport merchandise caps being incorporated into a preppy ensemble. As with mainline prep fashion, core basics are from brands such as Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Luxury pieces come from Armani, Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, Coach, Hermes, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Versace, Burberry, etc.
Early influences include the 1960s "Black Power" movement introduced advocacy of grown out natural hair styles in a growing appreciation of African features. All-black sunglasses, black leather jackets, black turtlenecks, berets, and jeans were the earliest stylistic differences that became popularized during the period which would become later incorporated as staples under the Black Ivy umbrella.
Popular car brands include Cadillac, BMW, and Mercedes-Benz. Cadillac specifically has a unique history within the black community as the first car brand to officially integrate their sales in the 1930's facing bankruptcy during the great depression, becoming the most popular luxury car for wealthy black Americans and maintains a level of cultural significance within the black community. BMW and Mercedes-Benz are popular consumer brands for black middle-class working professionals.
Lifestyle[]
under construction...
As a lifestyle, Black Ivy could be considered as civic engagement from upper and middle-class Black Americans with issues predominantly affecting members of their race in the United States and appreciation of the cultural footprint of Black Americans.
They live in mansions, townhouses, larger-sized residential urban homes, and in suburbia. They eat soul food too. Listen to Jazz, RnB, Neo-Soul, and both Conscious rap and Lyricist Rap. They follow Black Poetry. They play Tennis. They like Boxing and have Basketball courts. They were in Track and Field during high school and college. Their grandparents made sure they were in swimming lessons. Around the year there are extended family gatherings. They have Grace before dinner. Parents or Older siblings step in to tutor. They're involved in Honors Society and/or Black Greek Life. They attended predominantly black preparatory schools. They support predominantly black institutions. They're apart of social and athletic clubs.
Fashion[]
The key to Black Ivy is to capture an elevated but authentic dress sense. Most Black Ivy elements comes from utilizing popular ethnic identifiers, new money, or working-class staples into otherwise preppy/traditional ensembles. Denim jeans, all-black sunglasses, black turtlenecks, natural afros, and fur coats were used to accentuate that upper and middle class African Americans were able to abide by the norms under a "professional" and "polite" WASP dominated workplace culture while expressing unity within their own. Modern interpretations takes cues from modern preppy/traditional fashion with sportswear like sneakers and varsity jackets. Black Ivy for women tends to utilize hair, nails, accessories, and patterns inspired by African designs and African American culture.
Clothing[]
- Navy blazers
- Tailored suits
- Tailored shirts and blouses
- Black turtlenecks
- Cable knit sweaters
- HBCU sweaters
- Black Leather Jackets
- Wool coats
- Fur coats
- Trench coats
- Oxfords
- Low heeled pumps
- Pantyhose
- Tweed skirt and jacket sets
- Houndstooth clothing such as blazers, skirts and dresses
- Jeans
- Varsity jackets
- Sneakers
- Chelsea boots
Accessories[]
- Pearl necklaces, earrings, and bracelets
- Diamond, gold, or silver necklaces rings and earrings
- Gemstone or mineral necklace, earrings, and bracelets
- Fascinators
- Understated nails
- Hats (berets, fedoras, flat caps, newsboy caps, fitted and snapbacks, Trilby, Panama, Pork Pie, Hamburg)
- Antique brooches
- Cufflinks
- Lapel pins
- Tie clips
- Signet rings
- All-black sunglasses
- Silk or cashmere scarves
- Horn-rimmed glasses
- Wire-framed glasses
Hair[]
Women[]
- Braids
- Natural afros
- Afro curls
- Medium to long length locs
- Relaxed
- Weave
- Wigs
Men:
- Braids
- Natural Afro
- Afro Curls
- High-top afro fade
- Medium Length locs
- High taper fade
- Low taper fade
- Waves
- Bald with facial hair
Home Decor[]
- Black porcelain figures
- Antique furniture
- Classic African diaspora paintings
- African themes, patterns, and ornaments
- Vases with flowers
- Fresh Fruit
- Antique porcelain plates
- Wood staining
- Fireplaces
- Wooden Upright Pianos
- Porcelain, silver, and gold tableware
- Classic chandeliers
- Family Portraits
- Extended family group photos
- Bookshelf with classic African diaspora literature
- Framed diplomas, athletic trophies, or works of accomplishment
Notable People[]
Style inspirations would be an endless list within sports and entertainment alone. As a way to narrow down the number of people, this list is going to focus on those mentioned directly in Black Ivy and a few.
United States[]
Mentioned in Black Ivy:
- Amiri Baraka
- Charles Wilbert White
- Dizzy Gillespie
- James Baldwin
- John Coltrane
- Ralph Ellison
- Martin Luther King Jr.
- Miles Davis
- el Hajj Malik el Shabazz
- Sidney Portier
- Harry Belafonte
Other contemporary figures:
- Billie Holiday
- Ella Fitzgerald and Louise Armstrong
- Langston Hughes
- Joe Louis
- Jesse Owens
- Sugar Ray Robinson
- Muhammad Ali
- Coretta Scott King
- Eartha Kitt
- Betty Shabazz
- Bill Russell
- Jackie Robinson
- Kareem Abdul Jabbar
- Julius Irving
Modern figures for inspiration:
- Jasmine Crockett
- Cory Booker
- The Obama Family
- Zendaya Coleman
- Chris Brown
- Bryson Tiller
- ASAP Rocky
- Tyler the Creator
- Frank Ocean
- Jon Batiste
Social Media Influencers:
Documentaries[]
- Nationtime (1972)
- Good Hair (2009)
- Entrepreneur Reginald Lewis: The Deal That Broke History
- America's Black upper class - Rich, successful and empowered DW Documentary | Reposted on ENDEVR
- Inside the Negro Middle Class (1968)
Film[]
- Race (2016)
- Malcolm X (1992)
- Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom (2013)
- Shirly (2024)
- Selma (2014)
- Dear White People (2014)
- Southside with you (2016)
- US (2019)
Music[]
- Sweet Life by Frank Ocean
- Kind of Blue by Miles Davis
- A Love Supreme by John Coltrane
TV Shows[]
- Blackish (2014)
- Fresh Prince of Belair (1990)
- Family Matters (1989)
- The Cosby Show (1984)
- A Different World (1987)
- The Proud Family (2001)
- The Gilded Age (2023)
- Good Times (1974)
- The Jeffersons (1975)
Fictional Characters[]
- Banks Family (Fresh Prince of Belair)
- Huxtable Family (The Cosby Show)
- Evans Family (Good Times)
- The Jeffersons (The Jeffersons)
- Janine Teagues (Abbot Elementary)
- Andre and Rainbow Johnson (Blackish)
- Trudy Proud (The Proud Family)
- Dwayne and Whitley Gilbert-Wayne (A Different World)
- The Wilson Family (US)
Gallery[]
References[]
- Wiki on Black Ivy League
- Wiki on HBCUs
- Wiki on the African-American upper class
- Black Elite
- Medium Article on fashion in the Civil rights movement
Books[]
- Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style by Graham Marsh and Jason Jules
- Our Kind of People: Inside America's Black Upper Class by Lawrence Otis Graham
- Black Greek 101: The Culture, Customs, and Challenges of Black Fraternities and Sororities by Dr. Walter M. Kimbrough
- The Original Black Elite: Daniel Murray and the Story of a Forgotten Era by Elizabeth Dowling Taylor
- Basic Black: Home Training for Modern Times by Karen Grigsby Bates
- The BAP Handbook: The Official Guide to the Black American Princess by Ginger Wilson, Kalyn Johnson, and Tracey Lewis